Up and down, up and down
28.09.1966 - 28.09.1966
We were dragged out of bed in the pre-dawn darkness, quickly packed, had no time for a wash and were off at first light. We crossed a long suspension bridge over the gorge and started to climb. It was up and down, up and down, all day, so much so that I lost count of the number of climbs, though there were few that were all that long or arduous. The descents seemed steeper than the ascents. We stopped at a small village for food and I had a 3 egg omelet. Then we moved on, up and down, up and down, following the river most of the way, though from high on the hillsides. By mid-afternoon we had reached the last ridge and then came a steep descent into the superb valley of the Andhi Khola, with its beautiful rushing river. We passed through the village of Boombri as it was getting dark. My right ankle had started giving me trouble and I was eager to stop, but our pushy guide wouldn’t allow us to do this until we reached a bhati/tea shop about a kilometre further on. I was absolutely exhausted by then. After a meal, I pushed two tables together to sleep on and was in my sleeping bag, dead to the world, by 9 pm.
About 10 pm I was awoken by loud screaming and arguing. Three Nepalese drunks were noisily carrying on a few feet away from my head and I couldn’t get them to stop. It went on for hours, nearly driving me insane. And yet I was so exhausted that eventually, in spite of the racket, I managed to fall asleep again. Not so Ade - he was still awake when the drunks finally left about 1 am, after having harassed ‘Terry Thomas’ in the interim, by pushing him around and rummaging through his bag and papers. T.T. then dragged Ade out of bed and insisted he go with him to the police, telling him to report a loss of 600 rupees, which was rubbish. He was wanting to take his revenge through us. The police told them to come back in the morning, so they returned to the tea-house and Ade said he finally got to sleep about 4 am.
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Early morning, Nowakot Province
The village Temple
A welcome meal
The Andhi Khola River - trail on upper left
The infamous bhati at Boombri
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